Herb of the Month - Elder

Common Elder Sambucus nigra

I can't wait for elder to flower each year. The taste of those tiny flowers, stitched together like lace, have such a unique flavour that each time I taste it, I cannot quite believe we are fortunate to have such beautiful flavours in the world. I did not actually discover how amazing they taste until last year. When I realised how I had been missing out for all of those years, I started to make up for it using it in many different recipes. I added elderflower to everything from fruit and yoghurt to crumbles and salads. The flowers taste of summer - that honeyed, pollen, floral, fragrant, yet slightly green grass like flavour. I feel so fortunate when I find a tree full of them.

Elder are such a beautiful tree, with their delicate many tiny, cream flowers, almost like beautiful pieces of lace or like confetti when taken by the wind. Their large, flat umbel shaped flower heads turn into large clusters of small dark purple almost black berries (nigra in the name meaning black, referring to the berries), which are also beautiful in taste and appearance.

Elder are a stunning sight in spring and summer. Their blossoms and fragrance are reminiscent of the English countryside. When in flower you can often smell the flowers before you see them, their wonderful, strong scent dancing through the air. A sweet and, some might say, slightly sickly fragrance. If there were any plant that could bring the fairies (other than mushrooms) it would have to be the elder!

In the Kitchen

Both elder flowers and fruits can be used. They have no end of uses in the kitchen so I will name just a few. Note that elderberries are mildly poisonous when raw so should be cooked first.

Elderflowers have an amazing, unique flavour – fresh, honeyed, pollen, yet slightly green. They are lovely sprinkled over fruit and yoghurt with a little honey. Elderflowers pair wonderfully with rhubarb, gooseberries and pears; in a crumble; poached or added to a jam; sprinkled over strawberries, raspberries and cherries and they also make a special addition to a summer pudding. Adding lemon enhances the flavour further. The flowers look beautiful scattered over salads bringing a light floral flavour.

Elderflower fritters are amazing! Make a batter combining self-raising flour with a little cornflour and sugar, an egg and sparkling water (or lemonade) to form a light batter. Dip whole elderflower heads in the batter and cook in hot oil for 30 seconds to one minute. Remove and drain on some kitchen paper before serving with a dusting of icing sugar and a squeeze of honey if you wish. Demolish straight away!

If you don’t want to go to the effort of making a batter, I have found that dusting the whole flowerheads in flour and lightly frying in a little butter or oil is a quick (and moreish) way to enjoy the flowers especially after drizzling with a good quality honey and eating warm. Who needs pancakes?!

Pickled elderflowers are something I discovered last year. A syrup can be made with the flowers and used for many things from pancakes to fritters and cream-based desserts. You could even drizzle over elderflower fritters!

Elderberries are just as adaptable and are particularly good combined with blackberries producing a strong, sweet, deep, rich flavour. Berries can be used with, or without, the addition of blackberries in cordials, jams, crumbles and puddings. Wherever you would use blackberries, elderberries are also sure to be suitable.

Elderberry vinegar, balsamic vinegar, and Pontac sauce are wonderful creations that everyone should make. These pair well with fish - particularly salmon, red meats, salads, cheese on toast and even with chips (if you don’t mind them being purple!).

My mum has combined elderberries with rowanberries to make a very nice wine. Elderberries can be used in liqueurs and is an ingredient in Sambuca, its name coming from the Latin Sambucus.

Ok, I said I would only name a few uses but elderflowers and berries are just too good!

Harvesting

If elder is not a plant growing in your garden or allotment, plenty can be foraged from woodland edges, hedgerows and scrub habitats. They also grow in disturbed ground and nitrogen rich areas. Flowers can be found from May to early July, with berries in August and September.

The end of May into early June is the best time for picking the flowers. The pollen provides the taste so pick flowers on a warm, dry day and not straight after the rain as the pollen will have been washed away. Pick whole umbels with all flowers open and with creamy-white centres. The heads can be cut with scissors or snapped at the joint. Do not pick if they are going grey or petals are starting to fall or look ragged.

Do not wash the flowers as this will wash off the pollen. Instead, give the umbels a shake (I would advise outside!) to dislodge any insects.

Don’t pick every flower from a plant and return expecting to find fruit - there will be none! Make sure to leave some flowers for the insects and so plants can produce berries. As always with foraging, take only what you need, always leave some for wildlife and some so the plant is able to reproduce.

Fresh blossoms do not keep for long so once harvested use as soon as possible. If you are not able to process straight away, place the umbels upside down on a flat surface, in a warm place, out of direct sunlight for drying. Once dried, the flowers come away easily if just shaken lightly. A fork helps strip the fresh flowers from the stem, as with the berries later in the year.

Pick berries once fully ripe and shiny. You will have to beat the birds to the berries in autumn. They enjoy their sweet, rich flavour and know when they are perfectly ripe!

How to Grow

Elders are deciduous trees which can grow up to 10m tall. They grow very quickly and freely self-sow, producing new shoots, so can dominate if not maintained. Prune well in late autumn, after fruits have been produced and picked. Any berries not harvested provide a good food source for birds over winter. If you want to leave some berries for wildlife, cut plants back by early spring before new growth is produced.

The common elder Sambucus nigra tolerates most soil. They prefer a sunny position though you will find them growing in woodlands.

History

Elder is thought of as a plant of mystery, magic and superstition. Think folklore and fairy tales!

One folktale was that elder only grew where blood had been shed. An elder planted close to the house was said to protect against evil and apparently it is never struck by lightning.

Elder is associated with ritual and religions and the Cross of Christ was said to have been made from elder timber.

The name ‘elder’ is thought to have derived from the Anglo Saxon Ellaern or Aeld, meaning fire or kindle, as stems were often used for starting fires. Sambucus may have originated from the Greek sambuke, which was a type of harp made from elder wood.

Medicinal

Elderflowers have antibacterial properties, reduce respiratory problems and are used to treat hay fever. A gargle made with elderflower vinegar can help with sore throats.

The berries are high in vitamin C and are very effective at treating colds and flu. Simmering the berries with sugar (often with other fruits high in vitamin C such as rosehips) is a good winter tonic for coughs and colds. The berries also have a mild laxative effect.

Other Uses

Bruised leaves rubbed on the shins helps keep flies away and makes a good repellent if made into a spray. Elderflower water softens the skin.

The fruits make a violet dye when combined with alum and the flowers and berries are used in many cosmetics. The Romans made purple colouring from the berries, using as a hair dye. In Scotland the bark and roots were used to produce green dye.

The wood is great for carving and has been used for many purposes, to make butcher’s skewers, musical instruments and needles for weaving nets. Elder also adds to the fermentation of compost.

Wildlife

Insects love the highly scented flowers, and the berries provide a food source for birds and small mammals in the autumn and into winter. Many caterpillars feed on elder foliage, including swallowtail butterflies.